Using EXIF Reader

While doing research, in particular, photo analysis, the importance of using an EXIF viewer on the photos is very critical, in that it reveals a lot of information that the researcher can use in that analysis.  The following slides are from the MABRC Training Facility and is used to train MABRC Researchers in this very important aspect of research.  ALWAYS!! use an EXIF viewer to look at the details on a photo, don't never take anything at face value, no matter who it is that provides you with a photo.

Download EXIF Reader here

Peers - The Scientific Community and Bigfoot Researchers - by Marie Simone Van Speybroeck

- by Marie Simone Van Speybroeck

November 10

Recently I had occasion to talk with some of my peers about the work amateur researchers conduct in the field of cryptozoological study. After speaking with several experts in the field of zoology. I noted that the same responses were prevailing among all of them.

There is a notable apprehension in the scientific community to accept data provided by amateur researchers in the field of cryptozoological study. Understanding that the cryptozoological and zoological study should follow the same rigorous guidelines is one of the key reasons for the disdain of science for the topic. 

So let’s see if I can try to explain how an amateur researcher can gain the respect of the professionals.

To fully understand the in-cognizance of the sciences in regards to cryptozoology one must understand the meaning of the word, (Cryptozoology). 

Cryptozoology is a pseudoscientific approach to the discovery unknown or legendary creatures many of whom are considered to be of folklore. It is a study in the undiscovered and is often conducted with out the disciplines and skills of a zoological team. The title of cryptozoologist is more often then not, a self bestowed credential. Though it is accepted by the public as legitimate the word describes a multitude of different disciplines. 

To understand this one must look at the field of zoology. Zoology is the study of animals. It is a multi disciplined field. A zoological team is comprised of several individuals whom are all expert in different disciplines. A typical team consists of a wildlife biologist, wildlife behaviorist, a veterinarian and a veterinary pathologist and a botanist as primary members, secondary or support persons would be a local guide and a animal tracker. For one individual to master each of these disciplines it would take a lifetime of vigorous study resulting in several degrees for a single individual. Not an impossible thing but a highly unlikely situation. 

So the first mistake made by many laymen researchers is to introduce themselves as cryptozoologists a word that describes multiple disciplines of which most laymen researchers simply do not possess. 

Credibility is dictated by the qualifications and credentials of the individual. So simply introducing oneself as a amateur researcher is far more credible then using the self aggrandized title of cryptozoologist. 

Credibility also demands solid repeatable performance witnessed by more then one individual and proven scientific technical methodology be used in all aspects of your research.

Literally 1000s of items of evidence are destroyed by contamination or improper retrieval, storage handling of evidence. 

Photographic evidence that is unclear such as blobsquatches. Should not even be submitted to the body of evidence. Researchers whom post photographic evidence and say “ can you see it?” expecting the viewer to find some fuzzy dark mass in a picture and convince them selves that it is indeed a picture of the creature in retrospect. Diminishes the researchers credibility. 

Researchers should never work alone. Teams of two are a minimum, teams of 4 or 6 are by far more credible. Every team should have one skeptic as a member of the team. This prevents enthusiastic researchers from committing (Boboizums) (named after Bobo, James Fay) a comedic term assigned to researchers whom are guilty of seeing and hearing a cryptid at every snap of a twig. Or fallen tree. So before you say that’s a squatch. Make sure it really is a Sasquatch. 

These things will all improve the credibility of the researchers. 


If you would like more help in research techniques please comment and I will do my best to help.

How to solicit sighting reports?

Courtesy of the MABRC

The MABRC uses the following brochure to solicit sighting reports, they post these everywhere that it's allowed to post flyers at.  Each little square at the bottom is a tear-off that people can take with them.  You too can create such a flyer to post them around your town and even the neighboring areas where you live.

MABRC Memorial Day 2016 Expedition

Sawdustt at Bikini Bottom Research Area.

The Bigfoot Field Guide proudly presents the MABRC 2016 Memorial Day Expedition, as edited by Mark "Sawdustt" Newbill.  The BFG blog appreciates all of Mark's hard work putting this together for the Bigfoot Field Guide.

Strange Creature Caught on Eagle Cam Bigfoot?

Recently this was posted on Facebook, MABRC Researcher Darkwing decided to enhance it to see what he could make out of it.  First the original video with the uploader's remarks.

Published on May 23, 2016
My sister watches this eagle cam constantly. It is live footage of an eagle's nest located in northern Michigan. While watching one day she noticed a strange dark creature in the background. Almost looks like a bear but it appears to be walking normally. Check out the top right corner background. Anyone have any idea what this is?



And then Darkwing's enhanced video, he slowed it down to 26% of the actual speed and then used the magnification tool to enhance the figure as it moved through the woods.  After the video, see Darkwing's comments about the enhancement.



Darkwing's comments:
While the enhancements clearly shows arms and legs, it's still at a far enough distance that facial detail and other information to confirm if it's a Bigfoot is missing.  Its an interesting video to say the least, but this could also be a human in heavy clothing walking through the woods.

Thermal Footage from Oklahoma

Courtesy of the MABRC

During the last part of 2013 in Oklahoma, 2 different researchers, two weeks apart, in the same location, caught something on their thermals that sat for a long period of time watching their camps.

While the researchers are adamant that this could be a "possible" Bigfoot, it is very interesting footage from the same location, 2 weeks apart, by 2 different researchers.

The first three videos were taken by Driveroperator on November 15, 2013, by mounting his thermal on a pole above his vehicle during the night while he slept in his tent.  It shows a heat signature staying basically in the exact location for nearly 30 minutes watching from behind a creekbed behind his tent.










The next video was taken by Darkwing, who had mounted a thermal on a pole sticking up from his vehicle, and in the video, he does pan around the camera to see if he can spot any other heat signatures coming up towards him from other directions.  The heat signature maintains it's position in a creek bed about 50 feet away from the creek bed that Driveroperator's heat signature was seen in.  It continues to maintain it's position even when a large deer walks behind it at a distance of around 40 to 50 feet.  Only when the deer comes back through, does the heat signature lower itself, and proceeds to disappear, perhaps to go hunt the deer.



One of the lessons to note here, is that Bigfoot appear to tend to move the same way at night as they do during the day, using cover to move around to mask their approach.  Once they get a position where they feel they are safe, they will maintain it and watch from it.  After years of watching the woods with thermals, the two researchers involved have noted that all other animals in the woods continue to move around, except when they bed down.  This heat signature maintains it's position behind the creek bed the entire time, moving only enough to show that it is definitely not a rock or other inanimate object that had absorbed heat throughout the day and continued on into the night reflecting heat.

It's up to the reader though to decide for yourself what it is in the videos.

Procedure after finding a Track

Courtesy of the MABRC

Procedure after finding a Track

Note location, GPS if available in field journal, along with date & time.

Using a surveyors flag or other such, mark the track. (note: do so approx. 1 foot away from track so as not to damage track 

Visually scan the area for additional tracks, if found flag as above. 

Using the track direction search for other tracks If two or more tracks are found (track way) measure both step and stride. 

Do so on several.

Note in field journal.

If only two tracks are found, set up a tracking stick and search for other tracks.

In doing all the above take CARE not to destroy or disturb any of the tracks. Ask bf to lift foot so you can get a better look at track (sorry couldn't help my self).

Number a 3X5 card and lay about 2" away from the track Take minimum of 4 pictures, with 3X5 card visible in photo.

Get on ground and visually examine track, do not touch and take care not to disturb.

Use flash light at different angles to high light any possible points of interest.

If points of interest found, do close up photos of those points Take photos from directly above track, with and with out flash, a couple of each.

Take measurements

If using a photo scale, lay it next to the track and take a photo from directly above. (angles will distort getting a true measurement to varying degrees.) If using a tape measure, carefully lay a stick at both ends, ones long enough to reach the tape measure. Measure distance between the two sticks. ( 3 bamboo skewers work nicely, one next to the track and the other two at the ends, by using the one next to the track it is easier to keep the two end ones parallel to each other for a truer measurement) Repeat process for width measurements

* If using Track Caliper, lay next to track and carefully adjust so the top and bottom just touch the edge.

* No matter what you are using take care not to disturb the track

* If measuring device of choice in place take photos, minimum of 4, using effort so measurements are readable in the photo.

If casting, proceed to casting procedure

Latent Print Collection

Courtesy of the MABRC

The intention behind the guidance given by the MABRC on latent print collection is not to train researchers to be latent print examiners, nor to be crime scene investigators. Rather the guidance provided here is to give researchers a means of using makeshift equipment and proper protocols in the effort to successfully collect latent prints of suspected Sasquatch should the opportunity present itself.

Researchers should be aware that it is difficult at best, to substitute for professional fingerprint equipment, however the technique and guidance provided here can successfully lift latent prints under good conditions.

The list of supplies that a researcher will need a very simple and inexpensive.

-- A small, empty squeeze bottle (similar to an eye drop bottle, preferably with a screw off top)
-- A bright flashlight 
-- A two inch wide roll of clear tape
-- A black or dark colored plastic sheet (transparency sheets work perfectly)
-- A fine powder such as talc or cake flour
-- A camera lens brush with fine hair at one end, and a bulb at the other end (similar to a mini turkey boaster)
Researchers should be aware that the probability of encountering a Sasquatch print that is suitable to be lifted is minimal, and more than likely will either be encountered on a window, vehicle surface, or other nonporous surfaces. Prints will most readily be apparent after the surface has been coated in a fine dust, such as a vehicle that was used in field research.

Researchers should follow the following protocol in order to minimize contaminating the print, and aid in the successful recovery of the observed sample.

1. Photograph the print or hand mark of the surface prior to conducting any attempt at recovery. The use of a photographic scale or other measuring device is vital in the attempt to document the print.

2. If the print is difficult to see, attempt to use the flashlight at different angles in order to highlight the print for photographing. Dependent upon the camera the researcher uses, a flash may or may not be needed.

3. Take several photos from various angles and distances.

4. Annotate in your research journal what the photo is of. (The researcher may need to describe what is in the photo for later recollection.)

5. The researcher should now put on a pair of powder free latex or nitrile gloves in order to prevent contaminating the print, or worse yet, leaving one of his/her own, and lifting it as the specimen.

6. The small squeeze bottle should be filled approximately one-third to one-half full of the fine powder. It is imperative that the bottle be capped after every use in order to prevent moisture from absorbing into the powder and making it difficult to use. (A cheap trick to prevent moisture from sticking the powder together is to add a little dry, white rice to bottle)

7. Firmly shake the bottle a few times in order create a dust within the bottle, then remove the cap and softly squeeze the bottle away from the suspected print.

8. Pay attention to how much dust comes out of the bottle when squeezed, and at what direction the air is carrying the dust. Seldom is the air completely still, so pay attention to the direction it flows, and how fast it settles.

9. Once you have determined the air flow direction, the rate of descent of the dust, and how much dust exits the bottle with each squeeze, move to the opposite side of the print from which the air is flowing.

10. Softly squeeze the bottle and attempt to drift the dust onto the print. The key here is to lightly dust the print with powder, but not so much that the surface is obscured. (This is something that you can practice with at home before going to the field)

(If more powder is needed to dust the print, ensure that you continue to shake the bottle before squeezing it)

11. Using the lens brush, softly squeeze the bulb in order to blow air out the brush, and blow away any excess powder. Ensure that the brush DOES NOT touch the print at this point.

12. Use the flashlight from various angles to check and see if a print is visible under the powder.

13. If a print is apparent, but not clear, delicately use just the tip of the brush and softly brush it across the print to further remove any excess powder. Extreme care should be used on this step as it is very easy to destroy a print using the brush.

14. Using the roll of tape, start the tape and double back the end in order to make it easier to remove later.

15. Tack the beginning edge of the tape approximately two inches past the print, and with one hand controlling the tape roll, use the other hand to secure the tape to the surface.

16. Using one finger, slide it down the non-adhesive side of the tape, securing it to the surface and the roll of tape is maintained taut using the other hand. It is vital that the tape not have any kink, wrinkles, or air bubbles under it as it is secured to the surface.

17. Once the tape has been secured successfully two inches past the print, cut the tape and secure the end to the surface.

18. Using the transparency, or other similar dark material, cut a piece that is approximately one inch larger on all sides than the print that is attempting to be lifted.

19. If using a transparency that has been printed on, ensure to use the opposite side which will be shiny and non-porous. It should be noted that paper does not serve as a good medium when using this method.

20. Place the “card” near the tape and use the fingers of one hand to secure the flat end of the tape to the surface. 
Using the other hand, grasp the doubled tag of tape and slowly begin to peel it from the surface. Ensure that the tape is peeled back smoothly, firmly, and evenly as it is very easy to ruin a print at this point.

21. Once the tape has been removed and is secured using both hands, tack the flat end of the tape back to the surface and to one end of the “card” simultaneously.


22. Using one hand to control the tape, use one finger of the other hand to firmly slide against the non-adhesive side of the tape working your way up the card. Ensure that the tape is secured to the card smoothly, evenly and firmly. Kinks, wrinkles, or air bubbles can destroy the print.

23. Once the tape is completely secured to the “card”, remove it from the surface and trim any excess tape from all four sides.

24. Using a label, place it on the back of the card and label it with the appropriate tag number. Once this is done, fill out the specimen collection form and label it with the tag number from the print, and add this tag number to your research journal entry.

The researcher should be aware that usually a print is not able to be lifted again, once it has been compromised by the tape. Additionally, if there is more than one print lifted from the same location, each print will receive a different tag number, however only one specimen collection form is needed, but do include all the tag numbers from all samples on that form. All tag numbers should also be entered into your journal entry.

Procedures for Shelter Evaluation

Courtesy of the MABRC

When locating what you suspect as being a shelter it is important to follow some very basic steps that will assist you in classifying it. These procedures are also important in proper documentation, which will help your research credibility and overall understanding.
We will be dealing primarily with shelters at this point but most of the procedures are true for all constructs you find in the woods.

First and most importantly, when you find one, DO NOT start walking all over, jumping up and down, pulling material off or generally messing up any possible evidence that may be present.
Stay at least 10 feet away from the structure, you can even take a branch or use your foot to draw a rough circle around it as a reference point and no intrude zone (for the time being).
Make note in your field journal of location, date, time and initial observations, include GPS if you have that available. Also, note any ground conditions present at the location, is the ground covered in leaf litter, is it grassy, or dirt. How, thick is the vegetation, trees, brush etc.

Now, take pictures of the structure from all angles possible, without entering the 10 foot circle. You cannot take too many photos. If the structure is particularly interesting I would even suggest picking a point, take a photo and step sideways take another picture, continuing to do so until you have circled the entire structure.

The majority of the time the ground will be covered in leaf litter, which really can assist your investigation greatly.

Pick a location, preferable in front of any opening and start removing the leaf litter within the circle. Take your time and pay close attention to the ground under the leaves. If the construct is human there is a very good chance you will find shoe or boot tracks under the leaves. If this is the case, do not stop your investigation, because you can still learn a great deal from doing it. Also, this does not automatically negate a bf possibility. Obviously, you are also looking for possible bf prints under the leaves. However, finding human tracks at the location, you will have to pay closer attention to any possible bf tracks to insure they are not distorted human tracks.
Any tracks you find, make sure you photograph, even the human ones.

The next tracks to look for under the leaves are deer and bear. The reason being that both animals are opportunistic with shelters and will use human constructs in the woods. Also, document these tracks.

Your next step is to sketch the structure in your field journal, sketch it from the four cardinal points. Now, carefully measure the structure, noting your measurements on your sketches, including opening size.

Now move to the interior of the structure, look and see if there are any compression areas within. This is especially important if you can ascertain it is a relatively new construct. (It wasn't there last week.) All animals including humans will leave compression areas if it was used for a shelter. If you find a compression area, measure and photograph it. If you are leaning toward it being a bf shelter, remove the contents, especially those in the compression area and secure them in bags, taking care not to contaminate them. You will go through the material at a later time in a clean environment to ascertain if there is any hair etc. in it.

Now examine the construct itself in detail, how old is the material, is there any cut marks, is there any weaving of material and if so how intricate. Any larger limbs or tree material, was it carried or dragged to the location (if dragged you should see the scuff marks on the ground when you removed the leaf litter.). 

Make sure you note everything in your journal and take photos!

There are a few basic types of human constructs made in the woods by, survivalists, hunters, boy scouts, kids and photographers. In some areas these can be plentiful, especially if any Boy Scout or survival classes were taught in the area. Take a little time and familiarize yourself with these. I will give a basic inscription on some of them; it is by no means extensive, complete or definitive.

Debris Shelter: Primarily a survival shelter for protection from cold weather (even when it is cold outside you can be very warm in one)

Common construction: One end of a large limb or tree is placed in the crotch of a tree, stump rocks or other such to support the end 3-4 feet off the ground. The other end is left on the ground. Smaller limbs and brush are leaned against this to form an inverted "V". They are placed in sufficient number to support the cover. The cover is forest litter, creating an insulating blank of leaves etc. Very, very seldom with there be any cut marks on this type of shelter as it is make completely from available forest materials.

Tee Pee Shelter: Similar to a debris shelter, constructed when no notch or other suitable location is available. Both free standing and using an existing tree for support. These are more often made by boy scouts and kids, as they are much less efficient, less stable and more energy intensive to construct. Branches with leave material still attached is the prefer method of insulation as the angle of the structure is not great for holding leaf litter. (Note: look for cut areas on the insulating branches, knife, saw etc. a good indicator of scouts and kids.)

Wikiups: These are domed structures, where brush is pulled to a center location from still rooted plants, secured and covered. If planned the blank or what ever will have been removed.
They may also be made by driving saplings into the ground. The frame work will usually be interwoven with horizontal brush. Not a survivalist structure, but is made by kids, scouts, native re-creationists.

Blinds: Used by hunters and photographers, these are often only two or three sided. Consisting of loosely woven branches, with enough openings to allow for good views. Often times they are very loose weaves as the intent is as much to break up the human outline as it is to completely hide them. They can be found with or without foliage woven or stuck into them.

Comparison Photos

 Courtesy of the MABRC

When you post a picture that you think may contain a Bigfoot in it, be prepared to be asked for comparison photos of the same location from different times. Too many people fall under the matrixing issue, believing that they have a Bigfoot, yet if they would take the time to review comparison pictures, they would either realize that they are seeing shadows or even leaves creating the impression of a face. If the same view is there a day later, then claiming it was a Bigfoot in the first place only erodes any credibility you hoped to of gained from the original picture. The MABRC requires any picture turned into them for evaluation to be accompanied by comparison photos, and other groups should always have that requirement too, for anything turned into them. You should never give anyone a free pass without the accompanying comparison photos to evaluate.

It is also MABRC policy to always ask for comparison photos whenever a photo is submitted to us for evaluation.

The following photo illustrates the need for comparison photos.  The lady who sent this in, thought a Bigfoot was standing at the end of her driveway, and she took the photo.  Upon on-site analysis and taking the comparison photos, it was discovered to be dark leaves in a brush pile that resembled a humanoid type figure.

Using a BB Gun

Or a paintball gun.

Seen a post today about using a paintball gun, and it made me think about a seldom used technique by MABRC researchers that don't have thermals can use while researching.

If you think you have a Bigfoot standing in the underbrush, but don't want to approach it.  Take a BB gun and simply shoot into the shadow where you think it is standing.  If it moves, then you know it was a Bigfoot, if it doesn't, then it wasn't nothing more than a shadow.  A paintball gun has the same effect.  The Bigfoot more than likely will only react to it like a bug bite, but will move.

Many will claim that this will infuriate the Bigfoot and make it attack, I have used this technique before, and I still have all my arms and legs.  I have seen two shadows move after being hit with the BB gun.

Camps

Courtesy of the MABRC

Campsites are common for expeditions and most research, and whenever appropriate, the camps should always be set up in favor of the Bigfoot being able to approach from several avenues that give them sufficient cover and concealment, yet still allow the researcher to view them without too much obstruction.

It’s well known to MABRC Senior Researchers that Bigfoot will keep cover between themselves and the people in the camp. They do this by approaching from behind tents, vehicles, low lying areas such as ravines and other objects to cover their movements.

During the second Honobia Bigfoot Conference in 2008, MABRC researchers watched as multiple sets of eye shine were spotted looking OVER the vehicles that were parked across the road from the base camp. Rocks were also thrown into the camp with great accuracy, the sound as the rocks sailed through the branches of the trees around the camp testified to the force behind the rock throws.

The point being, the Bigfoot were using the vehicles for cover, in order to get close enough to view the occupants of the camp.

MABRC Researchers have also experienced Bigfoot walking through and inspecting the camp after all the researchers have went to bed in their tents. Before the last researchers crawl into their tents, it’s necessary to throw extra wood on the campfire to give off enough light for a while for the Bigfoot observing the camp to see that no one is still up and moving around. Once the fire dies down enough, the Bigfoot will begin entering the camp and rummaging through anything of interest. This is when the audio recorders come into play as they record the movement.

Basic Field Pack/Evidence Collection Pack

Courtesy of the MABRC

The basic idea is to have a kit that allows you to collect evidence in the field made up of items that are purchased locally at a minimal cost.Ideal evidence kit is one that takes up a minimal amount of space, yet contains sufficient items to handle the majority of applications. To that end the list being proposed for this purpose is one that can be contained in a fanny pack. 

Note: heavy and bulky items can be stored in a vehicle or at base camp (if a pack in situation) until needed. Such as casting powder etc. . The exception would be if you are working in a team and the items can be split up among team members. 

Compact Camera: This is in addition to any other camera (s) you carry with you. A small digital with zoom capability are common place now. It should be placed in the evidence kit and used only to document any potential evidence you find. This does not mean that you do not take pictures with other cameras of evidence. All cameras have traits and by using more then one details that would normally be missed could be picked up. It allows for one camera to be dedicated to potential evidence. 

Small Flash Light: Besides allowing you to illuminate shadowed areas, a flash light held at different angles allows you to pick out details you might normally miss. This is especially important when examining tracks. Allowing you to concentrate photographing the area or taking extra care if you cast it.

Measure: Tape measures can be very useful, but only if properly used. In purchasing a tape measure it should be wide with large numbers. It is also a good idea to use a dulling agent on the tape measure prior to using. This allows for a better chance of reading any measurements on photos taken. A track caliper is a much better choice then a tape measure for measuring a track. (It can be easily constructed from inexpensive items.)

Sterilizing Agent: A small bottle or vial to be used to clean and disinfect any item that you will use repeatedly, such as tweezers.

Tweezers: Sterilize and dry after purchasing, then enclose in a safe environment such as a vial or zip lock. Use to pick up small objects. Do not handle with out clean non-powdered gloves. After use, sterilize and replace in container.

Q-Tips: Should be stored in zip lock bags or in individual containers. 

Gloves: Nitrile are the recommended, however any non-powdered "rubber" (using rubber as a generic term for lab type gloves not specifically rubber gloves) glove can be used. Do not handle potential evidence that you collect with your bare hands.

Knife: A disposable surgical knife or sterilized utility blade to be used in a utility knife. At times a sharp sterile knife is needed to remove a piece of potential evidence with out damaging it or to collect evidence. The blades can be sterilized and carried in a container separate from the knife. When needed, remove a blade (while wearing gloves) place it in the knife and use it. When done the blade may be resterilized or disposed of.

Containers: Envelopes from small coin size up to large manila should be in the kit, as well as a couple vials and some zip lock bags.

Note Book and Pencil: It should be small enough to fit in the kit. A small 4X6 ring binder with lined pages in front and unlined card stock in the back. When potential evidence if found, note it and the details in the lined section, then in the back draw a diagram of the item on the card stock. Including a rough site map, prominent features of the area and evidence.

Permanent Marker: 

3X5 Cards: These are used for documentation in photos, pertinent information such as time, date, location, name etc are written on the card and included in the photos by placing next to the potential evidence prior to photographing.

Spot Markers: These are extremely valuable when doing field research. A piece of bright cloth with a marble or rock tied in it. (If you take a photo of something, drop one of these directly between your feet to mark the spot you took the picture from. ) It allows for marking exact locations in an easy to find way. They may also be tied to near by brush or trees for photo referencing, trail marking etc.

Magnifying Glass: This one is pretty self explanatory, for examining items. Most sewing stores or departments also carry tweezers with a magnifying glass attached. While the magnifying glass may be a bit small and cause some eye strain if used to examine large surfaces, it is great for assisting in collection of small items and worth the space as a second tweezers and magnifying glass.

Tape Recorder: A mini or micro tape recorder dedicated to specific potential evidence. Other items recommended to have with that may be stored at base camp or in vehicle until needed.

* Lightweight tool box* Ruler or photo scale (these items should be in your carry kit if they fit)* Large surveyors tape for mapping* Pen/pencil* Evidence custody log* Tape recorder for recording impressions during investigation* Casting material* Reinforcing media I.e. plastic mesh bamboo kabob skewers* Two bottles of water* Gallon or larger bags to mix in* Border material* Multi tool* Evidence collection procedures manual* Large plastic sealable container* Duct tape* Ball of String or Twine* Garden hand spade* Paint Brush (at least 2 of differing sizes)* Trowel* Flagging Stakes 

Fixed Blade Knife: A heavy belt knife of good steel. Of all the items you can take with you, this is perhaps the most important. 

Basic First Aid Kit: Odds are you will not have to do any thing major, but you will have to treat, nicks, cuts, scrapes, and a varieties of other minor problems. So, a small basic kit should take care of them. (Note: Rule of thumb, the longer the trip/pack in or the larger the group the larger the first aid kit.)

Walking Stick: It does assist in walking in hilly or rough terrain. Can be used as a track stick (for measuring stride so you can find where the next track should be if you loss it). I have a tripod mount in the top of mine so I can mount a spotting scope or camera and use the walking stick like a mono pod. You can also take black tape and wrap around the stick at 1 foot intervals, this will enable the stick to be used as a method of measurement.

Don't Forgets: Extra batteries for every piece of equipment that takes batteries, Rolls of film of various speeds, extra memory cards for digital cameras, tapes that fit any tape recorders you have with, tapes or CD's for any video cameras you have with. Meds (even day tripping take your meds with, a hundred things can happen that may strand you in the woods for a day or two), Extra pair of glasses and at least 3 extra pair of socks. (trust me on the socks they have dozens of uses not the least of which is keeping your feet dry which can make the difference between a fantastic trip and a miserable one.)

Hydration Source: Water or a means of obtaining it.

Listening Post Suggested Protocols

Courtesy of the MABRC

Listening Post Protocols

During standard research trips to the field and on expeditions, the MABRC conducts listening posts in active areas. These protocols are placed here as guidelines to aid other researchers in setting up their own listening posts in the field.

* Always use 2 or more researchers for a listening post, this is for safety and credibility purposes. You can take along fold up chairs to sit on, or find a good place to sit down at.

* Always position the researchers so that they face each other, this goes along with the campfire tactic, as each researcher watches behind the one directly across from them. This allows the Bigfoot a level of comfort to approach the listening post, as they believe they are not being watched directly by the researchers.

* Always record the entire time you are in the listening post with a digital voice recorder, this will record all information, vocalizations and noises that are related to the listening post and what has occurred there.

* If using parabolic listening devices, position them in a way to not be viewed as a threat to any Bigfoot that may approach. Do this by hanging it on your chair or setting it on the ground by your feet, or even set it on a log. 

* Upon hearing a noise, do not jump up and begin shining your light into the surrounding area, wait until you are sure that the noise being made is close enough that you can successfully light up whatever is making it.

* Talking between the listening post participants can be conducted when there is a lack of ambient noise that would give the Bigfoot sufficient noise to cover their movements. This would usually occur in the colder months of the year.

* During an expedition, a briefing should be conducted of all members going out to conduct listening posts, this briefing should include, but no limited to: location of all listening posts, researchers in each listening post, radio channels, rally points should something happen, function of each member, and who should be in charge of the team in the listening post.

* If a researcher in a listening post becomes lost in the dark, they should stay where they are, do not wander around, as this will make it easier for search parties to find them in the dark.

* If able, the digital voice recorder should be left recording on the hike back to the base camp, that way, if anything occurs on the walk back, it will be recorded for review.

* Upon returning to the base camp area (expeditions) an immediate debriefing should be concluded in the event something occurs, this should also be done with the presence of a recording device for reference later.

* In some instances, if the location could be easily relocated the next day in the daylight, leaving a hidden digital voice recorder behind at the listening post location could obtain activity of Bigfoot, which would possibly come into that spot to check it out after the researchers leave.

* In some cases, parking in vehicles can be done at remote locations, in this case, recorders should still be used to record what is happening around the area. If you are trying to use the abandoned vehicle approach, avoid any activity that would produce unnecessary movement that would rock the vehicle and let the Bigfoot know you are in it. This could be from shifting in a seat, to stretching or even reaching into the back seat for something.

Call Blasting Protocol

Courtesy of the MABRC

Call Blasting Protocol

While Call Blasting is debatable on it’s effectiveness in the field, MABRC Researchers continue to use it on occasion. From purported Bigfoot vocalizations from around the world, to primate vocalizations, and even baby crying audio.

To conduct Call Blasting and document it for proper review, the MABRC has produced protocols and procedures for researchers to guide them.

Documentation

There are two types of documentation required with respect to call blasting efforts:

* Written documentation.
* Audio/Video recordings.

Written Documentation

The notes or narratives of each outing where sound blasting was performed must include the following details: what happened (a basic log), who was there (names and contact info.), the location (specifically), the terrain, the date, the time-frame, the weather conditions, the history of reports in the area, the accessibility of the area (i.e. legal accessibility, vehicle accessibility), whether there are homes within ear-shot of the call blasting, and anything else that may be scientifically or historically relevant.

Audio/Video documentation

The outing should be videotaped: the people present, the location, the equipment used and anything else that may be historically or scientifically relevant. This record must have someone speaking to the camera, listing the details required in the written documentation (i.e. location, time-frame, local history of reports, etc.). This must be a separate tape from the tapes used to record response vocalizations.

Procedures for Recording Sounds

At least two sound recording devices (which can be camcorders, but preferably high quality digital voice recorders) must be running the whole time the team is on location after dark. The Bigfoot might vocalize before any sound blasting is conducted, so recordings must be made when not blasting sounds.

Do NOT try to record Bigfoot vocalizations by hitting the "Record" button when sounds are heard. Sounds will be missed that way. The recorders MUST be running every moment after dark. Recorders should be started at different times. The recording periods must be staggered so that at least one recorder is running when the tape is being swapped or rewound on the other recorder. A recording plan must be developed in order to do all this in an orderly fashion (include that plan as part of the written documentation). If using digital audio recorders, then using tapes become a non-issue.

If using camcorders, follow this procedure.

Several tapes will be needed for each recording device. Each tape has to be labeled appropriately before it is put in the recorder. Mark the tape with the date and time of the first recording session and each date and time the tape is used after that, if at all. Don't reuse any single tape on more than five outings. Consumer-grade digital tapes have degraded sound after being recorded on a few times. Buy new ones every so often. They are cheap. 

If no responses are heard before a tape reaches the end of its spool, rewind that tape and start recording again. If any sounds are heard while a tape(s) is recording, let it continue to record to the end of the spool, then swap out the tape and mark on the label the time it was taken out of the recorder. Also mark it to indicate that it may have vocalizations on it. Review the tape later, in a dry, well illuminated, relatively dust free location.

Don't ever rewind and replay the relevant section of a master tape over and over repeatedly.

This should only be done with copies or computerized versions of the clip. People ruintheir precious master tapes by repeatedly playing and rewinding an important clip over and over, in order to play it for their friends, before they’ve made backup copies. Don't check to see if a sound was captured on tape while still outdoors. You can check to see if the tape recorded any sound at all, but once you’ve determined that then simply have faith that the relevant sounds were captured as well. You either captured the sound or you didn't. Wait until you are indoors, away from moisture and heavy dust, before reviewing the tapes.

Powering Recording Devices

Adequate power supplies for each recorder will be needed because of continuous recording throughout the night. There are multiple ways for doing this; choices for extended power depend on the recording devices used. Cassette recorders are easiest because they'll go all night on the batteries put inside them. If not, the batteries can be quickly replaced.

Camcorders are more difficult in this regard because the batteries and power accessoriesare more expensive and have a shorter duration. If there are multiple vehicles and cigarettelighter adapters available, these devices can be powered that way. Camcorders will not rundown a car battery. Another option is to have three camcorder batteries for each unit and abattery charger connected to a car cigarette lighter. Yet another option (preferred) is to usedeep cycle batteries with AC/DC inverters. Deep cycle batteries (boat batteries) will last aweek or more if only powering camcorders or cassette recorders.

The Recording Plan

Having a thorough recording plan means knowing the types of devices that will be on hand and having: an adequate number of tapes for each device, an adequate labeling process for the tapes, adequate power supplies for each device, a list of all needed accessories, a plan for staggering the recordings after sundown so that at least one recorder is always running, the knowledge of exactly how long each device will run before a tape is finished or a battery needs to be changed.

Recording devices should be placed several yards from each other and several yards behind the sound blasting gear. If possible, use plastic tote boxes for the recorders. A recorder can be placed on top of a tote box during dry weather and inside the box if the night air gets too moist (with an external mic hanging out from under the edge of the lid). If possible, have an external mic taped to a tripod so it's a few feet away from the recorder when the recorder is in the tote box. In that way, the microphone will be higher in the air and won’t record the sounds of the recorder’s motor noise. 

While recording, have someone with a wrist watch walk up to each recorder every quarter hour and clearly whisper the time near the mic. For example, “It is now 8:15 p.m.”

Microphones

Get the best possible microphones to use with the recorders. Almost all camcorders have jacks for external microphones. External mics are preferable because built-in mics always record some level of recorder motor noise. That noise can be heard when one cranks up the volume of a tape. This is particularly essential when recording faint sounds, because the volume of the tape will need to be cranked up rather high during playback in order to hear these sounds clearly.

No one can be touching the device or the microphone during or after the sound blasting. If the recorders are sitting on the hood or roof of a vehicle, then no one can be sitting inside the vehicle. Movement inside the vehicle will cause loud knocking and creaking sounds on the tape.

If people need to sit inside the vehicles, then the recorders should be at least 30 feet away from the vehicles. The recorders should be at least 30 feet away from people anyway, to prevent their reactions to vocalizations from overriding the recording of the vocalizations themselves. The participants have to be trained and prepared to keep quiet for long enough after any vocal responses are heard so as not to screw up the future usability of any good recordings obtained.

Other Procedures

Triangulation

If possible, you will put people on each side of the ridge or mountain top with walkie talkies. There is no technical process for triangulating the position of a sound source. It's all done by ear and judgment. All of the different listeners simply say which direction the sounds came from. They'll narrow it down greatly that way. Technical triangulation is thwarted by echoes and the relatively limited areas involved.

If you have multiple recorders placed out away from your base area, these could technically become triangulation devices, as you can listen to the sounds being recorded and compare them with the other recorders.

Controlling Distractions

Be as quiet as possible. Do not speak or move after the call blasts. This will help you and your field partner to hear what is going on!

When call blasting, the following procedures should be used.

* Upon arrival, if possible, make sure that no one is in the immediate vicinity that could be alarmed at your call blasting.

* If anyone is in the area, document their location for reference.

* Play the call at half volume, this takes away the majority of the static when playing at full volume and alerting the local Bigfoot that it is a fake call. The best time to call blast is at the top of the hour and every thirty minutes afterwards. This way, if someone reports hearing a vocalization in the area, you can discover whether they heard your call blasting or a real vocalization by what time they heard it.

* You want to play a minimum of 2 calls, and a maximum of 5 calls in any series. Depending on the length of the call being used. The longer the vocalization of your call, the less number of times you want to repeat it.

* Document the time, which direction, what call you used, and what the response was. Have your recording equipment going during the call blasting, as some responses may occur immediately.

* The two biggest problems I have witnessed with call blasting is that the people can not be still. Some one will shuffle their feet and someone will feel the need to talk. This is distracting to those trying to listen and often will be picked up on the recorder over a faint vocal. So as mentioned train yourself to be quiet.
L

How to use research equipment

Courtesy of the MABRC

While the amounts of equipment that can be used for Bigfoot research expands on a continual basis, this will attempt to cover the basics of researching with equipment and how to properly get the most from it. We will cover only the basic equipment to get you started with.

Research on a budget.

While we do not have stock in Wal-Mart, you should always consider it the best place to obtain research equipment for lower prices. You don’t have to be rich to conduct Bigfoot research, but always realize that the cheaper the equipment, the poorer quality results you will obtain.

Always buy according to what you expect to do or accomplish in the field.

Research the information on different brands and models before you buy them, and always play it smart. Stick with good solid companies with proven track records. 

E-bay and Craigslist are also places to buy equipment, but remember, you will always take the chance of encountering someone who is not honorable on these places and can be taken for your money.

Night Vision Scopes

Wal-Mart and other online retailers usually have low-cost Russian-made night scopes at a reasonable price. If you have the money to spend, Generation 3 Night Scopes are available. For the novice Bigfoot researcher, a Generation 1 Night Scope should be sufficient to start with, and although it’s debated that Bigfoot can see the Infrared spectrum, Gen 1 scopes use IR LEDs to increase their viewing range, but can also use moonlight and other light sources to multiply it’s range.

Generation 2 and 3 Night Scopes do not have to rely on IR LEDs to view the area with.

Trailcams

While trailcams are great for photographing deer, it’s the general consensus of many Bigfoot Researchers in the MABRC that the Bigfoot will avoid these units in the field. More work is needed to figure out the best possible way to hide them.

Driveroperator has put his cameras high up above the eye-level of Bigfoot of 16 foot and higher with no comparable results. Biggjimm has been putting his in ice chests and leaving them in the area, hoping a Bigfoot will come up to the ice chest and open it up, thereby getting a picture. Other researchers will leave them in camp, sitting in chairs, camouflaged with clothes and other gear, in order to see if a Bigfoot may come into camp while the researchers are gone or asleep.

The MABRC has begun using the trailcams to basically funnel Bigfoot into areas where they can be observed better by putting trailcams up around 3 sides of a camp, leaving the fourth side open, hopefully, the Bigfoot will avoid the sides with the cameras and come in on the side that doesn’t.

Bionic Ears

There are several types of parabolics used by the MABRC Senior Researchers. It is in their estimation, the best piece of equipment outside of a thermal camera to use in the field. Price ranges vary, and you get what you pay for.

The first is called the Orbitor, and resembles a pistol, and includes a built-in 10 second recorder and a scope with it. Darkwing uses these extensively, and if you go to the section on Parabolic Listening Devices in this manual, you will see some of the methods that he uses with them.

The second is called the “Bionic Ear” brand, and is a higher priced device that reaches further than the Orbitor type. It comes with an extra plug-in for a voice recorder to be attached separately from the headphone plug in.

Displaying Casts

Courtesy of the MABRC

When taking pictures of your casts to display for others to see, buy a Grid Cutting Mat from Wal-Mart like the one shown here. Lay the cast on it, and you have the measurement grid on it to show the size of the cast.

This is a sewing measuring board that you can buy at Wal-Mart.

The example above is from Chilko Lake BC Canada WSSSG 9-3-2009