Using EXIF Reader

While doing research, in particular, photo analysis, the importance of using an EXIF viewer on the photos is very critical, in that it reveals a lot of information that the researcher can use in that analysis.  The following slides are from the MABRC Training Facility and is used to train MABRC Researchers in this very important aspect of research.  ALWAYS!! use an EXIF viewer to look at the details on a photo, don't never take anything at face value, no matter who it is that provides you with a photo.

Download EXIF Reader here

Play Me Something Cool!

Written by Randy "Rebelistic" Savig, MABRC Missouri State Director

You know I wish I had a dime for every time I’ve heard this sentiment.  When it comes to bigfoot the public and wanna believers seem to only want the great videos, pictures and audio.  They want the Oohhs and aahhs so they can say they now know bigfoot is real.  Details don’t matter as long as it is cool!   So here goes a couple of questions, does this help research or get us closer to proving the existence of an undocumented species?   Is it only the cool stuff that matters?

With humans being so used to be entertained by all the available media out there it is hard to suffice the appetite for being entertained.  Sadly, real research seldom sees the cool stuff when they go out.  There are the hours in the woods.  There are the hours of review.  There are hours of planning.  There are the hours of try to put patterns together to make the time in the woods more productive.  On and on it goes.  Another sad fact is that what is cool to researchers ain’t always what is cool to the public.  You bet we love to hear and record the screams etc., see the possible structures or manipulations, or get lucky enough to catch something on video or thermal.  

Yes, we also appreciate the pat on the back when we do catch something from the public and other researchers.  Unfortunately for a lot of folks the Oohhs and Aahhs become addictive.  I think that is why there is such a hoaxing problem that we see every day on Facebook and Youtube.   It would seem like once you put something out there that is cool and possibly bigfoot related the public’s appetite just gets bigger.  At times it seems that they get demanding and what more from you.  Any researcher worth their salt know that we spend a whole lot more time without the so-called cool stuff happening.  We still do the planning, head to the woods, review what we have recorded, try and figure out things.  But we don’t get the Oohhs and Aahhs from that.  I’ve seen so many get into the trap of letting the notoriety get in the way and try and force things to happen.  If that fails, try and hype up the stuff that does happen just because they feel an obligation to fulfill the public’s appetite for so something cool.  I’ve seen scary bigfoot pictures added to audio, scary background music during talks about experiences, all in hopes of feeding the public’s hunger.  Sorry folks, that doesn’t do much but muddy the waters and takes away from the research.  All those scary pictures and music won’t help find the evidence needed to prove the existence of bigfoot.  

Now don’t get me wrong, I realize that folks are interested in bigfoot.  When putting presentation on for conferences and radio shows we need to share the cool stuff we get as that is what folks want when attending them.  Just don’t let the cool stuff be all that you are after.  The data is in the details.  The little stuff.  I can’t even begin to state the importance of how sharing the little stuff around campfires has made new ideas and filled in the blank to help others in researching their areas.  

So, one final thought.  As a researcher is your priority to the insatiable hunger of the public or to adding to the possible evidence to further push the existence for an undocumented species, we call bigfoot. 

Peers - The Scientific Community and Bigfoot Researchers - by Marie Simone Van Speybroeck

- by Marie Simone Van Speybroeck

November 10

Recently I had occasion to talk with some of my peers about the work amateur researchers conduct in the field of cryptozoological study. After speaking with several experts in the field of zoology. I noted that the same responses were prevailing among all of them.

There is a notable apprehension in the scientific community to accept data provided by amateur researchers in the field of cryptozoological study. Understanding that the cryptozoological and zoological study should follow the same rigorous guidelines is one of the key reasons for the disdain of science for the topic. 

So let’s see if I can try to explain how an amateur researcher can gain the respect of the professionals.

To fully understand the in-cognizance of the sciences in regards to cryptozoology one must understand the meaning of the word, (Cryptozoology). 

Cryptozoology is a pseudoscientific approach to the discovery unknown or legendary creatures many of whom are considered to be of folklore. It is a study in the undiscovered and is often conducted with out the disciplines and skills of a zoological team. The title of cryptozoologist is more often then not, a self bestowed credential. Though it is accepted by the public as legitimate the word describes a multitude of different disciplines. 

To understand this one must look at the field of zoology. Zoology is the study of animals. It is a multi disciplined field. A zoological team is comprised of several individuals whom are all expert in different disciplines. A typical team consists of a wildlife biologist, wildlife behaviorist, a veterinarian and a veterinary pathologist and a botanist as primary members, secondary or support persons would be a local guide and a animal tracker. For one individual to master each of these disciplines it would take a lifetime of vigorous study resulting in several degrees for a single individual. Not an impossible thing but a highly unlikely situation. 

So the first mistake made by many laymen researchers is to introduce themselves as cryptozoologists a word that describes multiple disciplines of which most laymen researchers simply do not possess. 

Credibility is dictated by the qualifications and credentials of the individual. So simply introducing oneself as a amateur researcher is far more credible then using the self aggrandized title of cryptozoologist. 

Credibility also demands solid repeatable performance witnessed by more then one individual and proven scientific technical methodology be used in all aspects of your research.

Literally 1000s of items of evidence are destroyed by contamination or improper retrieval, storage handling of evidence. 

Photographic evidence that is unclear such as blobsquatches. Should not even be submitted to the body of evidence. Researchers whom post photographic evidence and say “ can you see it?” expecting the viewer to find some fuzzy dark mass in a picture and convince them selves that it is indeed a picture of the creature in retrospect. Diminishes the researchers credibility. 

Researchers should never work alone. Teams of two are a minimum, teams of 4 or 6 are by far more credible. Every team should have one skeptic as a member of the team. This prevents enthusiastic researchers from committing (Boboizums) (named after Bobo, James Fay) a comedic term assigned to researchers whom are guilty of seeing and hearing a cryptid at every snap of a twig. Or fallen tree. So before you say that’s a squatch. Make sure it really is a Sasquatch. 

These things will all improve the credibility of the researchers. 


If you would like more help in research techniques please comment and I will do my best to help.

How to solicit sighting reports?

Courtesy of the MABRC

The MABRC uses the following brochure to solicit sighting reports, they post these everywhere that it's allowed to post flyers at.  Each little square at the bottom is a tear-off that people can take with them.  You too can create such a flyer to post them around your town and even the neighboring areas where you live.

Thermal Footage from Oklahoma

Courtesy of the MABRC

During the last part of 2013 in Oklahoma, 2 different researchers, two weeks apart, in the same location, caught something on their thermals that sat for a long period of time watching their camps.

While the researchers are adamant that this could be a "possible" Bigfoot, it is very interesting footage from the same location, 2 weeks apart, by 2 different researchers.

The first three videos were taken by Driveroperator on November 15, 2013, by mounting his thermal on a pole above his vehicle during the night while he slept in his tent.  It shows a heat signature staying basically in the exact location for nearly 30 minutes watching from behind a creekbed behind his tent.










The next video was taken by Darkwing, who had mounted a thermal on a pole sticking up from his vehicle, and in the video, he does pan around the camera to see if he can spot any other heat signatures coming up towards him from other directions.  The heat signature maintains it's position in a creek bed about 50 feet away from the creek bed that Driveroperator's heat signature was seen in.  It continues to maintain it's position even when a large deer walks behind it at a distance of around 40 to 50 feet.  Only when the deer comes back through, does the heat signature lower itself, and proceeds to disappear, perhaps to go hunt the deer.



One of the lessons to note here, is that Bigfoot appear to tend to move the same way at night as they do during the day, using cover to move around to mask their approach.  Once they get a position where they feel they are safe, they will maintain it and watch from it.  After years of watching the woods with thermals, the two researchers involved have noted that all other animals in the woods continue to move around, except when they bed down.  This heat signature maintains it's position behind the creek bed the entire time, moving only enough to show that it is definitely not a rock or other inanimate object that had absorbed heat throughout the day and continued on into the night reflecting heat.

It's up to the reader though to decide for yourself what it is in the videos.

Procedure after finding a Track

Courtesy of the MABRC

Procedure after finding a Track

Note location, GPS if available in field journal, along with date & time.

Using a surveyors flag or other such, mark the track. (note: do so approx. 1 foot away from track so as not to damage track 

Visually scan the area for additional tracks, if found flag as above. 

Using the track direction search for other tracks If two or more tracks are found (track way) measure both step and stride. 

Do so on several.

Note in field journal.

If only two tracks are found, set up a tracking stick and search for other tracks.

In doing all the above take CARE not to destroy or disturb any of the tracks. Ask bf to lift foot so you can get a better look at track (sorry couldn't help my self).

Number a 3X5 card and lay about 2" away from the track Take minimum of 4 pictures, with 3X5 card visible in photo.

Get on ground and visually examine track, do not touch and take care not to disturb.

Use flash light at different angles to high light any possible points of interest.

If points of interest found, do close up photos of those points Take photos from directly above track, with and with out flash, a couple of each.

Take measurements

If using a photo scale, lay it next to the track and take a photo from directly above. (angles will distort getting a true measurement to varying degrees.) If using a tape measure, carefully lay a stick at both ends, ones long enough to reach the tape measure. Measure distance between the two sticks. ( 3 bamboo skewers work nicely, one next to the track and the other two at the ends, by using the one next to the track it is easier to keep the two end ones parallel to each other for a truer measurement) Repeat process for width measurements

* If using Track Caliper, lay next to track and carefully adjust so the top and bottom just touch the edge.

* No matter what you are using take care not to disturb the track

* If measuring device of choice in place take photos, minimum of 4, using effort so measurements are readable in the photo.

If casting, proceed to casting procedure

Latent Print Collection

Courtesy of the MABRC

The intention behind the guidance given by the MABRC on latent print collection is not to train researchers to be latent print examiners, nor to be crime scene investigators. Rather the guidance provided here is to give researchers a means of using makeshift equipment and proper protocols in the effort to successfully collect latent prints of suspected Sasquatch should the opportunity present itself.

Researchers should be aware that it is difficult at best, to substitute for professional fingerprint equipment, however the technique and guidance provided here can successfully lift latent prints under good conditions.

The list of supplies that a researcher will need a very simple and inexpensive.

-- A small, empty squeeze bottle (similar to an eye drop bottle, preferably with a screw off top)
-- A bright flashlight 
-- A two inch wide roll of clear tape
-- A black or dark colored plastic sheet (transparency sheets work perfectly)
-- A fine powder such as talc or cake flour
-- A camera lens brush with fine hair at one end, and a bulb at the other end (similar to a mini turkey boaster)
Researchers should be aware that the probability of encountering a Sasquatch print that is suitable to be lifted is minimal, and more than likely will either be encountered on a window, vehicle surface, or other nonporous surfaces. Prints will most readily be apparent after the surface has been coated in a fine dust, such as a vehicle that was used in field research.

Researchers should follow the following protocol in order to minimize contaminating the print, and aid in the successful recovery of the observed sample.

1. Photograph the print or hand mark of the surface prior to conducting any attempt at recovery. The use of a photographic scale or other measuring device is vital in the attempt to document the print.

2. If the print is difficult to see, attempt to use the flashlight at different angles in order to highlight the print for photographing. Dependent upon the camera the researcher uses, a flash may or may not be needed.

3. Take several photos from various angles and distances.

4. Annotate in your research journal what the photo is of. (The researcher may need to describe what is in the photo for later recollection.)

5. The researcher should now put on a pair of powder free latex or nitrile gloves in order to prevent contaminating the print, or worse yet, leaving one of his/her own, and lifting it as the specimen.

6. The small squeeze bottle should be filled approximately one-third to one-half full of the fine powder. It is imperative that the bottle be capped after every use in order to prevent moisture from absorbing into the powder and making it difficult to use. (A cheap trick to prevent moisture from sticking the powder together is to add a little dry, white rice to bottle)

7. Firmly shake the bottle a few times in order create a dust within the bottle, then remove the cap and softly squeeze the bottle away from the suspected print.

8. Pay attention to how much dust comes out of the bottle when squeezed, and at what direction the air is carrying the dust. Seldom is the air completely still, so pay attention to the direction it flows, and how fast it settles.

9. Once you have determined the air flow direction, the rate of descent of the dust, and how much dust exits the bottle with each squeeze, move to the opposite side of the print from which the air is flowing.

10. Softly squeeze the bottle and attempt to drift the dust onto the print. The key here is to lightly dust the print with powder, but not so much that the surface is obscured. (This is something that you can practice with at home before going to the field)

(If more powder is needed to dust the print, ensure that you continue to shake the bottle before squeezing it)

11. Using the lens brush, softly squeeze the bulb in order to blow air out the brush, and blow away any excess powder. Ensure that the brush DOES NOT touch the print at this point.

12. Use the flashlight from various angles to check and see if a print is visible under the powder.

13. If a print is apparent, but not clear, delicately use just the tip of the brush and softly brush it across the print to further remove any excess powder. Extreme care should be used on this step as it is very easy to destroy a print using the brush.

14. Using the roll of tape, start the tape and double back the end in order to make it easier to remove later.

15. Tack the beginning edge of the tape approximately two inches past the print, and with one hand controlling the tape roll, use the other hand to secure the tape to the surface.

16. Using one finger, slide it down the non-adhesive side of the tape, securing it to the surface and the roll of tape is maintained taut using the other hand. It is vital that the tape not have any kink, wrinkles, or air bubbles under it as it is secured to the surface.

17. Once the tape has been secured successfully two inches past the print, cut the tape and secure the end to the surface.

18. Using the transparency, or other similar dark material, cut a piece that is approximately one inch larger on all sides than the print that is attempting to be lifted.

19. If using a transparency that has been printed on, ensure to use the opposite side which will be shiny and non-porous. It should be noted that paper does not serve as a good medium when using this method.

20. Place the “card” near the tape and use the fingers of one hand to secure the flat end of the tape to the surface. 
Using the other hand, grasp the doubled tag of tape and slowly begin to peel it from the surface. Ensure that the tape is peeled back smoothly, firmly, and evenly as it is very easy to ruin a print at this point.

21. Once the tape has been removed and is secured using both hands, tack the flat end of the tape back to the surface and to one end of the “card” simultaneously.


22. Using one hand to control the tape, use one finger of the other hand to firmly slide against the non-adhesive side of the tape working your way up the card. Ensure that the tape is secured to the card smoothly, evenly and firmly. Kinks, wrinkles, or air bubbles can destroy the print.

23. Once the tape is completely secured to the “card”, remove it from the surface and trim any excess tape from all four sides.

24. Using a label, place it on the back of the card and label it with the appropriate tag number. Once this is done, fill out the specimen collection form and label it with the tag number from the print, and add this tag number to your research journal entry.

The researcher should be aware that usually a print is not able to be lifted again, once it has been compromised by the tape. Additionally, if there is more than one print lifted from the same location, each print will receive a different tag number, however only one specimen collection form is needed, but do include all the tag numbers from all samples on that form. All tag numbers should also be entered into your journal entry.

Procedures for Shelter Evaluation

Courtesy of the MABRC

When locating what you suspect as being a shelter it is important to follow some very basic steps that will assist you in classifying it. These procedures are also important in proper documentation, which will help your research credibility and overall understanding.
We will be dealing primarily with shelters at this point but most of the procedures are true for all constructs you find in the woods.

First and most importantly, when you find one, DO NOT start walking all over, jumping up and down, pulling material off or generally messing up any possible evidence that may be present.
Stay at least 10 feet away from the structure, you can even take a branch or use your foot to draw a rough circle around it as a reference point and no intrude zone (for the time being).
Make note in your field journal of location, date, time and initial observations, include GPS if you have that available. Also, note any ground conditions present at the location, is the ground covered in leaf litter, is it grassy, or dirt. How, thick is the vegetation, trees, brush etc.

Now, take pictures of the structure from all angles possible, without entering the 10 foot circle. You cannot take too many photos. If the structure is particularly interesting I would even suggest picking a point, take a photo and step sideways take another picture, continuing to do so until you have circled the entire structure.

The majority of the time the ground will be covered in leaf litter, which really can assist your investigation greatly.

Pick a location, preferable in front of any opening and start removing the leaf litter within the circle. Take your time and pay close attention to the ground under the leaves. If the construct is human there is a very good chance you will find shoe or boot tracks under the leaves. If this is the case, do not stop your investigation, because you can still learn a great deal from doing it. Also, this does not automatically negate a bf possibility. Obviously, you are also looking for possible bf prints under the leaves. However, finding human tracks at the location, you will have to pay closer attention to any possible bf tracks to insure they are not distorted human tracks.
Any tracks you find, make sure you photograph, even the human ones.

The next tracks to look for under the leaves are deer and bear. The reason being that both animals are opportunistic with shelters and will use human constructs in the woods. Also, document these tracks.

Your next step is to sketch the structure in your field journal, sketch it from the four cardinal points. Now, carefully measure the structure, noting your measurements on your sketches, including opening size.

Now move to the interior of the structure, look and see if there are any compression areas within. This is especially important if you can ascertain it is a relatively new construct. (It wasn't there last week.) All animals including humans will leave compression areas if it was used for a shelter. If you find a compression area, measure and photograph it. If you are leaning toward it being a bf shelter, remove the contents, especially those in the compression area and secure them in bags, taking care not to contaminate them. You will go through the material at a later time in a clean environment to ascertain if there is any hair etc. in it.

Now examine the construct itself in detail, how old is the material, is there any cut marks, is there any weaving of material and if so how intricate. Any larger limbs or tree material, was it carried or dragged to the location (if dragged you should see the scuff marks on the ground when you removed the leaf litter.). 

Make sure you note everything in your journal and take photos!

There are a few basic types of human constructs made in the woods by, survivalists, hunters, boy scouts, kids and photographers. In some areas these can be plentiful, especially if any Boy Scout or survival classes were taught in the area. Take a little time and familiarize yourself with these. I will give a basic inscription on some of them; it is by no means extensive, complete or definitive.

Debris Shelter: Primarily a survival shelter for protection from cold weather (even when it is cold outside you can be very warm in one)

Common construction: One end of a large limb or tree is placed in the crotch of a tree, stump rocks or other such to support the end 3-4 feet off the ground. The other end is left on the ground. Smaller limbs and brush are leaned against this to form an inverted "V". They are placed in sufficient number to support the cover. The cover is forest litter, creating an insulating blank of leaves etc. Very, very seldom with there be any cut marks on this type of shelter as it is make completely from available forest materials.

Tee Pee Shelter: Similar to a debris shelter, constructed when no notch or other suitable location is available. Both free standing and using an existing tree for support. These are more often made by boy scouts and kids, as they are much less efficient, less stable and more energy intensive to construct. Branches with leave material still attached is the prefer method of insulation as the angle of the structure is not great for holding leaf litter. (Note: look for cut areas on the insulating branches, knife, saw etc. a good indicator of scouts and kids.)

Wikiups: These are domed structures, where brush is pulled to a center location from still rooted plants, secured and covered. If planned the blank or what ever will have been removed.
They may also be made by driving saplings into the ground. The frame work will usually be interwoven with horizontal brush. Not a survivalist structure, but is made by kids, scouts, native re-creationists.

Blinds: Used by hunters and photographers, these are often only two or three sided. Consisting of loosely woven branches, with enough openings to allow for good views. Often times they are very loose weaves as the intent is as much to break up the human outline as it is to completely hide them. They can be found with or without foliage woven or stuck into them.

Curiosity

Courtesy of the MABRC

Curiosity

The best advice that can be given to new researchers is to take advantage of Bigfoot’s natural curiosity about things. By relying on the Bigfoot capacity for curiosity, you can increase your chances of an encounter.

Use techniques to encourage their curiosity and bring them closer to you. In the past, MABRC members have used noise makers, wind chimes, scents (bacon, honeysuckle, berry spray, perfumes, and many other assorted scents), glow (cyalume) sticks, mirrors, compact disks hanging from trees, and even tents with snoring recordings being played from inside it.

The goal here is to outsmart Bigfoot by trying different techniques. Just remember, that once a technique has been used, the chances of it luring in a Bigfoot a second or third time will decrease as the Bigfoot learns that it’s a trick to lure them in.

The forums MABRC Researcher threads have many of the tricks used in research in the past, and is a good place to learn what has been tried in the past, what has succeeded and what has failed.

Asking questions of the more experienced researchers will quickly help you understand the thinking behind their techniques and how they were applied. This is a great resource for beginning researchers to learn from those who have been there before.

MABRC Zero Trace Policy

MABRC Zero Trace Policy

It is the goal of the Mid-America Bigfoot Research Center to establish a Zero Trace policy for it's researchers while in the field. The goal of this policy is to leave the wilderness areas that MABRC Researchers go to in search of Bigfoot in as natural and pristine condition as it was when they entered the area.

As the term suggests, the goal is for researchers to have as little impact as possible on the location he/she is researching. One of the mottos for Zero Trace is "Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints." It's simplest and most fundamental rule is: "You pack it in, you pack it out".

UnderstandA good way to protect the backcountry is to remember that while you are there, you are a visitor. When you visit a friend you are always careful to leave that person's home just as you found it. You would never think of dropping litter on the carpet, chopping down trees in the yard, putting soap in the drinking water, or marking your name on the living room wall. When you visit the backcountry, the same courtesies apply. Leave everything just as you found it.

Here is the recommended Zero Trace Procedures from the MABRC:

Plan ahead to avoid impact.
* Limit Group size (6 or fewer optimum, however in large expeditions, this number will increase)
* Repackage food to reduce containers
* Take along trash bags to carry out all refuse
* Carry a stove and use foods requiring little cooking.

Travel to avoid impact
* Never discard cigarette butts, candy or gum wrappers or any other litter.
* Walk softly. Don't kick up dirt and stones or trample vegetation.

Make Zero Trace Camps and Campsites
* Select a site invisible from the trail and any other camping parties.
* Camp at least 25 feet from natural water sources and away from "beauty spots".
* Avoid using existing campsites that are obviously over-camped.
* Never cut standing trees and vegetation or pull up plants.
* Never dig hip-holes or trenches.
* Wear lightweight, soft-soled shoes around camp.
* Avoid building campfires or make only small fires in safe places, if possible, dig small hole that can be covered up after the fire is out. Make sure to keep the sod so it can be placed back on the top. Drown campfire and erase all evidence of it.
* Never wash dirty dishes, clothes, or yourself directly in stream or spring.
* Use biodegradable soap and dispose of waste water at least 200 feet away from water supply.
* Bury human waste six inches deep at least 200 feet from water, trails and campsites, bury your used toilet paper or pack it out. Do not leave it on top of the ground.
* Stay as quiet as possible.
* Leave your pets at home.
* Pick up every trace of litter.
* Replace and scatter twigs and leaves cleared for a sleeping area.
* Pack out all garbage.
* Check for any evidence of your stay, it is your duty to leave zero trace.

Camp and Travel on Durable Surfaces

Damage to land occurs when visitors trample vegetation or communities of organisms beyond recovery. The resulting barren areas develop into undesirable trails, campsites, and soil erosion.

Concentrate Activity, or Spread Out?

In high-use areas, campers should concentrate their activities where vegetation is already absent. Minimize resource damage by using existing trails and selecting designated or existing campsites.

In more remote, less-traveled areas, campers should generally spread out. When hiking, take different paths to avoid creating new trails that cause erosion. When camping, disperse tents and cooking activities-and move camp daily to avoid creating permanent-looking campsites. Always choose the most durable surfaces available: rock, gravel, dry grasses, or snow. 

These guidelines apply to most alpine settings and may be different for other areas, such as deserts. Learn the Zero Trace techniques for your crew's specific activity or destination. Check with land managers to be sure of the proper technique.

Minimize Site Alterations

Do not dig tent trenches or build lean-tos, tables, or chairs. Never hammer nails into trees, hack at trees with hatchets or saws, or damage bark and roots by tying horses to trees for extended periods. Replace surface rocks or twigs that you cleared from the campsite. On high-impact sites, clean the area and dismantle inappropriate user-built facilities such as multiple fire rings and log seats or tables.

Good campsites are found, not made. Avoid altering a site, digging trenches, or building structures.

Minimize Campfire Use

Some people would not think of camping without a campfire. Yet the naturalness of many areas has been degraded by overuse of fires and increasing demand for firewood.

Lightweight camp stoves make low-impact camping possible by encouraging a shift away from fires. Stoves are fast, eliminate the need for firewood, and make cleanup after meals easier. After dinner, enjoy a candle lantern instead of a fire.

If you build a fire, the most important consideration is the potential for resource damage. Whenever possible, use an existing campfire ring in a well-placed campsite. Choose not to have a fire in areas where wood is scarce-at higher elevations, in heavily used areas with a limited wood supply, or in desert settings.

True Zero Trace fires are small. Use dead and downed wood no larger than an adult's wrist. When possible, burn all wood to ash and remove all unburned trash and food from the fire ring. If a site has two or more fire rings, you may dismantle all but one and scatter the materials in the surrounding area. Be certain all wood and campfire debris is dead out.

Respect Wildlife

Quick movements and loud noises are stressful to animals. Considerate campers practice these safety methods:Observe wildlife from afar to avoid disturbing them. 

* Give animals a wide berth, especially during breeding, nesting, and birthing seasons. 
* Store food securely and keep garbage and food scraps away from animals so they will not acquire bad habits. Help keep wildlife wild. 

You are too close if an animal alters its normal activities.

Casting a track in the field

Courtesy of the MABRC

Casting a track in the field (See presentation slides at bottom of article)

You come across a track, and it appears to be a large human-shaped footprint. You may have found a Bigfoot track, what do you do? This article will show the MABRC Researcher how to identify, document and cast a Bigfoot track.

What type of track

First, you must confirm what type of track it is, we’ve included a chart here with many of the more commonly found tracks in the woods. 

Inspect the track 

When you find a track, you must inspect it and make sure it is an actual Bigfoot track, and not one that is misidentified, human-made or hoaxed. 

The following steps should be followed.

Variation - If multiple prints are found, look for variations such as toe position, shape, partial or full prints, etc. A living foot will not make the same print twice. A footprint is not what the foot looks like, but what it did when it hit the ground. Artificial feet are likely to look relatively the same print-to-print.

Compression Lines - Tiny cracks in the inner top-most part of a track are called compression lines, and are an indicator that the track was made by a flexible foot.

Impact Ridges - These are cracks that form on the outside of a track, and are caused when something hard and rigid, like wooden feet, are stamped into the ground.

Manipulation - Check to see if the print has possibly been tampered with. Has debris been removed to make the track clearer? Are there finger marks or obvious signs of shaping? Is the soil pushed and formed in ways that seem unnatural?

Human Activity - Are there signs of human presence in the area? Is the suspect print in a place where someone would think it would be noticed? In a picnic area, on a well-used trail, etc.? What is the likelihood that someone would choose this place of all places to perpetrate a hoax?

Habitat - Is the area involved likely Sasquatch habitat? Is there a history of sightings or track finds in the area?

Who knows you are there? - Who knows where you are going? Do any of your acquaintances or family members like to trick you? Maybe you know someone who wants to trick you? Could they have known where you would be?

A hoaxed track may be extremely convincing, so your best option is to document it as thoroughly as possible. You may not be convinced it is a hoax at first, but proper documentation and peer review can help you make a more informed decision.

Conclusion - Do not be so excited as to miss the little details. Regardless of what you think, if the evidence is enough to convince you that it deserves futher investigation, then do your best to document it in as much detail as possible with multiple photographs, measurements, and field notes containing time of day, date, location, and anything else worth noting, as mentioned previously. It is of the utmost importance that when presenting evidence for further review you are able to accurately portray the evidence in question. The fewer questions that need to be asked, the better results you are going to have.

The “Media”

There are several types of media or material to use in casting tracks.

* Plaster of Paris - not recommended as it is too brittle to last.* Dental Stone - Used by the F.B.I.* Hydrocal - Most commonly used for casting by researchers.* Ultracal - Requires less water to mix.

The “Tools”

* Ruler/tape measure/photographic ruler* 35 mm or Digital Camera* Casting media* Water* Bucket or other suitable container.* Mixing sticks* Latex gloves* Barriers* Hairspray or other spray or aerosol fixative* Journal

The “Basics”

Place measuring device along length and width of track. Take pictures and make sure the measuring units are viewable.

When measuring the width, do both the front and back of the track, so that this information is documented.

With these details, write them down in your journal for further information along with the cast.Take these pictures from all angles but do not place baby powder or flour into the track to make it more visible. If the track is not viewable with the camera, chances are, it’s not worth casting.

Preparing to cast

Before mixing your casting media and pouring the cast, the cast should first be properly prepared. In order to ensure a quality cast, a barrier should be erected around the track. One of the simplest barriers available is cardboard strips. These strips should be pre-cut to varying lengths. Once the appropriate length strips have been selected, you should notch the two end strips as illustrated below.

After notching the end strips, place them into the ground at a minimum of 1/2 “ from the edge of the track. This will insure that the track itself is not deformed by the pressure being applied to the ground. If the ground is too hard, the barrier can be left on the surface, and loose soil can be applied to the outside of the barrier to prevent the casting media from spilling out. Once the end barriers are in place, the side barriers should be inserted into the notches. Again, the side barriers should either be impressed into the soil or properly reinforced on the outside of the barrier. The end result is pictured here.

Mixing the medium

Now that you have prepared the track, it is time to mix the media. Most gypsum manufacturers recommend the use of latex gloves when handling and mixing media and this recommendation is carried over here. Another important rule to remember is always add the medium to water, never the other way around. Whether you are using pre-measured amounts of the two or simply “eyeing it”, the medium should be slowly poured into the water while continuously stirring the two with a mixing stick.

Once properly mixed, the slurry should have a batter-like consistency. A slurry that is too thin will be harder to contain and may not properly set up. A slurry that is too thick will not capture as fine a detail and may actually damage or alter the track during the pouring process. Before pouring the slurry, you should also tap the sides of the container until all bubbles have been discharged from the slurry.

Pouring the cast

The track is prepared, the slurry is mixed, and now it is time to pour the cast. In later installments we plan on dealing with splash casting, but for the purpose of this primer we will use a simple pour. The slurry should be carefully poured into the track at a minimum height. In my personal experience, I’ve poured directly into the heel or center of the track, or poured to the side and allowed the slurry to seep into the track. Unless the soul is especially light or dry, pouring directly into the cast as a minimum height should not affect it. Since a direct pour is the most common method employed, it is the one we will use for this demonstration.

As noted, the slurry should be poured at a minimum height and at a slow pace. The slurry should be allowed to slowly fill the track and the area between the track and barrier.

Note that the thicker the layer of slurry, the stronger the cast will be, but this will also increase drying time. Some online articles have suggested using sticks or other reinforcement to the casting media. If you are using a quality media such as Hydrocal or Ultracal, this is not necessary. In fact, adding artificats to the casting media can actually jeopardize the cast as they may introduce air pockets. These air pockets not only weaken the cast, but can also cause it to crack or break under changes in temperature or pressure.

Once the cast is poured, the waiting begins. One should refer to the manufacturers’ recommendations for the amount of time required for a cast to dry. Hardening times will vary based on type of casting media, thickness of the slurry, soil conditions, temperature, and other factors. If you are unsure, a good rule of thumb is to wait until the top surface of the cast has completely dried, then allow an additional ten to fifteen minutes. Keep in mind that you’ll only get one chance to cast the track, and therefore it is better to err on the side of caution than to rush and attempt to pull a cast before it’s ready.

Lifting the cast

When the time comes to pull the cast, gently insert your fingers under the two longest sides of the cast. This is another advantage of employing a barrier during a casting, as it will allo a wide enough surface area around the cast to exert pressure against it without actually touching the print cast itself.

Using a light rocking motion, slowly work the cast free from the soil. Once the cast is free, you should not attempt to clean it, as the casting media may still be soft enough to be damaged by even slight contact. A cast should always be handled from the top, and never from the print side. Gently wrap the cast, dirt and all in a towel or bag and stow it safely for transportation out of the area.

Cleaning the cast

The cast should be allowed to sit overnight before being cleaned. A soft brush can be used to remove the majority of dirt from the surface. Again, always handle the cast from the top side.

Assuming you have used a quality grade gypsum cement like Hydrocal or Dental Stone, the cast can then be washed. When washing a cast, avoid the use of any types of solvents or cleaners.

Warm water and a small amount of mild dish soap is more than adequate for these purposes. You should never scrub the surface of the cast, as this could potentially destroy any details. Instead, allow the water to gently run over the face of the cast while employing the same light brush strokes used when removing the loose dirt. After cleaning, set the cast aside somewhere safe and allow it to dry.

Trackways

A trackway is a set of impressions left by an animal over an extended distance. Even a set of 3 prints is considered a trackway.

Bigfoot trackways are very rare, but in the event you encounter one, documenting and casting these trackways are necessarily important to be done correctly.

Although many suspect the tracks shown here being measured by John Green to have been hoaxed by Ray Wallace, you should note that John is measuring the stride length between the tracks, trying to debunk whether they are hoaxed tracks or not.

Documenting trackways

* Measure all tracks found, width, length and depth.

* Photograph all tracks, including photos of the entire trackway, using small marker flags to signify the location of each track in the photo.

* Measure the stride length between the tracks.

* Note any obstacles that would cause deviation of trackway.

* Note direction of trackway.

* Note weather conditions.

Casting trackways

* Always cast right and left tracks, multiple tracks of each.

* Always cast more than one track.